The Base in Palermo
I booked a 7 nights stay in Palermo at a cute B&B I picked out with a work bestie. It was pretty spacious and quiet (for the most part) in the city. The closer to the Via Roma you are, the noisier it’ll be, so keep that in mind! I decided to stay in one place and take day trips as necessary which worked out pretty well for me. Follow me for this 7 day solo trip for ideas!
The Flight: Swiss Air
Photos
1st day: Chill. Take some time to unpack and shower
I arrived before my check-in so I asked them to keep my luggage and headed outside. I took a seat in Cafe Luca. I pointed at a pastry but they quickly motioned me to just sit if I’m not taking out. In most cafes with seating, I learned that they’re happy to serve you even if you’re there just for a coffee. They don’t expect a tip, so don’t feel obligated, but of course feel free if you have some spare change.
Dinner at Ristorantino Sobremesa
I did a quick google search and picked Ristorantino Sobremesa for dinner, based on good reviews. Follow my map for all the places I went to!
I ordered the following which I really enjoyed all:
- Appetizer: Polpo Arosto Spouma Di Papate E Cipollotto – Roasted octopus, potatoes sauce crunchy bread and backed onion
- Main: Busiate in Salsa AI Crostacei E Cotto E Crudo Di Gambero – Tipical pasta cooked in shellfish bisque with cooked shrimp and row “scampi” (norway lobster)
- Wine: Grillo
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Stroll down to Quattro Canti After Dinner
I walked around freely after dinner and stopped at a music scene. Later I found out it was Quattro Canti (Four Corners) which quickly became one of my favorite spots. Aptly named for a space where 4 roads meet with 4 corners, beautiful sculptures are carved on the buildings. There’s music and interesting activities going on night and day. A must visit when you’re in Palermo! (It’ll be hard to avoid it anyway :D)
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2nd day: Street Food Tour & Yoga
Free breakfast at a nearby cafe
It wasn’t clear to me how breakfast is served at my Bed and Breakfast. Just before heading out, I noticed little laminated cards on my table that I can use to get 3 items (a drink and some pastries) at the place I stopped by yesterday, Cafe Luca.
Street Food Tour
I met up with Francesco at our meeting place for a group Palermo Street Food Tour I reserved from GetYourGuide. I was the first person to arrive and Some other people started showing up. The members of our small group were from Canada, Belgium, and Germany.
The food
We started from the Il Capo market.
I already had some coffee and pastries so I wasn’t too eager to eat.
As in most countries, street food is mostly fried and sweet. So depending on your preference, I suggest you either
- Go on an empty stomach
- Have a small breakfast and treat these as “desserts”.
Either way, bring an empty plastic bag since you probably won’t be able to finish everything so you can have a bite of each and take the rest to go for later.
We had many varieties snacks/desserts
- Il Capo market
- Sfincionello
- Orange / pomegranate juice
- Assortment of salad bar – I imagine this will be a good place to take some food to go for a quick lunch.
- Arancini – at Bar Marocco in front of Palermo Cathedral. We were given a choice from ragu, ham & cheese, and spinach. I had spinach – it was great but by this time I was already too full so I couldn’t finish. Get a wrap paper from the bar to have it to go if you can’t finish.
- Cannoli- Chiesa di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria (church of st catherine of Alessandria)
- Gelato or Granita – I had lemon granita (shaved ice made with fruit, similar to Italian ice).
Shop in the middle
Francesco gave us an important tip, to shop in the middle of the market, not at the opening for products, as they tend to be more reasonably priced. I pinned this place and later came to get some pistachios, pasta, and other produce for gifts. Indeed, they were very affordable, compared to what you’d get in the US.
Make friends with people on your tour
I found my usually shy self was starting small talk with anyone sitting next to me and that was really one of the more interesting part about the experience.
How to save money in Palermo
- Palermo City pass – you can purchase a ticket that includes many attractions in the city. I didn’t do this because I felt like I will have to do this but I definitely suggest you look into it. My tour guide told me it can be purchased at the ticket booth ay Teatro Massimo.
- Train – make sure you download the app Trenitalia for digital ticket that is already validated.
- Free audio guide
- Eat from the market, and grocery stores
Yoga in a castle
After the street food tour, I took a brief nap and went to yoga. I looked for yoga classes near me and contacted Roberta at Yogatendency via the WhatsApp number I found on her Facebook. I was delighted that the classes are held in a beautiful palace, Palazzo Pantelleria-Varvar.
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Dinner
I had dinner at Cambusa, a restaurant owned by the same owner of my B&B. It had good reviews on Google so I decided to try it. Having pasta for dinner and pastries for breakfast, and street food for lunch, I felt like I needed some protein.
I ordered tuna and a mixed salad. Such a needed combo!
3rd day: Cefalu at last
Ah, Cefalu. I debated for a while whether to base myself in Cefalu before deciding on Palermo. Only an hour away by train from the Palermo central station, it was a nice getaway for sure and I think I would have enjoyed staying near the beach for sure as well.
Tip: make sure you download the app Trenitalia. You can buy the ticket directly and do not need to “validate” the ticket.
The Beach
The beach is very close and accessible right when you get close to the water. I wasn’t really planning on going into the water. There was a number of people but I could definitely have found a good spot if I wanted to. There were plenty of other ways to enjoy the beach: on the dock, on a bench in front of Molo 19 with an aperol spritz (the 3 benches are free to the public to sit without a drink), just roaming about.
Cannoli Cafe
Don’t be deceived by the small signage and generic name. Just walk straight in and you can find a seat by the balcony right in front of the beach (if it’s not too crowded). I ordered an affogato and a pistachio cannoli. I realized it’s too many sweets for me but I definitely enjoyed them with a view.
The Cefalu Cathedral
Certainly, here’s an enhanced version:
The Cefalù Cathedral Experience
Exploring the Red Route
I arrived at Cefalù Cathedral about an hour before closing, feeling unsure if I’d have enough time to fully experience it. After a quick chat with the friendly staff at the front desk, I was reassured that an hour would be sufficient. I even had the option to return the following day if I wanted a more leisurely visit.
I chose the red ticket, which includes access to the cathedral’s upper floors. Climbing up felt like navigating a maze with touches reminiscent of Notre Dame. Be prepared for steep stairs, though—comfortable shoes are essential for this adventure.
The views from the top floors and the beautiful Norman ceilings are worth every step. The intricate mosaics, especially the magnificent Christ Pantocrator, are simply dazzling, making this cathedral an unforgettable highlight.
Dinner at La Botte
I waited until 7:30 for the restaurant to open.
Always carry your phone charger
4th day: Monreale and the panoramic view of Palermo
I could have taken this day to take it easy but I was inspired to go to Monreale.
I planned my bus trip as Apple and Google map told me to. Although endearing, the late buses and being packed into the bus with the locals was quite exhausting. I would not recommend taking the bus if you have other choices.
When I stepped out of the bus, I was greeted by the striking panoramic view of Palermo.
Situated on the top of the hill, the view from Monreale definitely made me forget about the exhausting bus trip for a minute.
Stretch it out With Yoga
5th day Mt Etna & Taormina
6th day Chill. Dinner with a new friend
7th day – Chill. Last day in the market
Checklist
Check your airline’s carry-on restrictions. Get a hand-held scale if you need to weigh your bag.
Get Global Pass or TSA-Pre for faster security check.
Gift ideas
My favorite place to shop was Il Capo market. You can also visit Ballerò Market.
Due to the weight restriction of my carry-on, I couldn’t buy too much but here were some of my favorites that I do recommend:
All things pistachio – pistachios are fresh and very affordable in Sicily!
- Bag of Pistachios – Raw pistachios are great for vegans/vegetarians or people with diet restrictions.
- Pistachio pesto – awesome with busiate pasta
- Pistachio cream – this is sweet, great with bread
Pasta – busiate is a staple in Sicily. Fun curly shape is distinct and sure to delight pasta lovers.
Sundried tomatoes
Almonds
Pine cone ceramics –
Sicilian food
Octopus, Potato, Seafood pasta, Busiate, Pistachios!
In Palermo, the star ingredients for me are pistachio and seafood. In most restaurants you will find pasta with Busiate, delightful tight curly shaped noodles that holds the sauce really well in their curls.
Here, pistachios are abundant and relatively inexpensive. Coming from the US, pasta generously covered pistachio pesto seemed like a luxury. They mostly come with sun dried tomatoes which provides delightful tanginess to balance out the rich pesto.
Of course, seafood is also abounding in Sicily. Whether you order a seafood salad or pasta, Octopus, squid, and mussels are generously added. A waiter in one of the restaurants advised us not to order a fermented fish sauce if we are not too adventurous since it can be pretty strong. So just be mindful of fermented fish or sardine based dishes. If you’re not sure, don’t be afraid to ask for a recommendation as they will be happy to recommend something that is enjoyed by most people.
Pastas, carbs, protein FOMO
Being used to having pasta and pastries only as a treat once in a while, having it almost everyday almost felt sinful. Still, many places provide options (vegan croissant, gluten free pastries).
For my protein lovers (protect those precious gains)
Breakfast: most cafes only serve coffee, gelatos and pastries. Look for places that serve continental breakfasts or eggs.
Lunch/dinner: Order pasta with plenty of seafood. You can always also find a cut of tuna, other fish, or steak. Order a side of salad for some fiber!
Wine: Grillo and Grillo
5 out of 5 places I had wine at recommended a Grillo for a white wine (having mostly seafood based dishes). At one of the places, I ask for something else and they gave me Catarratto to taste, which was also lovely.
Grillo is a Sicilian wine made primarily from the native Grillo grape variety. Known for its crisp acidity and fresh citrus flavors, Grillo pairs especially well with seafood and lighter pasta dishes, making it a popular choice along Sicily’s coastal regions. Its versatility, bright character, and subtle minerality also make it a favorite among locals and visitors alike when dining in the Mediterranean climate.
Coffee
Basic coffee culture
“Un caffè, per favore” was one of the first phrases Duolingo told me to learn and it came in pretty handy.
When you ask for “un caffè” (a coffee), you’re asking for an espresso. In most cafes, they will not have drip coffee which is a default for “a coffee”. It’ll come in a small espresso cup with a saucer and a spoon (to stir in sugar or to enjoy the foam). So unless you’re in a hurry, just enjoy it on the table or standing on the counter. If you do need to go, ask for “take away” (which seems more common than “to go”).
Doppio, per favore
Another thing to note is that whatever you order, default is one shot of espresso. So if you are in need of more buzz in the morning, ask for a doppio or double. I.e: “cappuccio doppio”.
Morettino – one of the Sicilian coffee brands